Landscaping & Design Ideas

When constructing an interlocking concrete pavement, there are some general minimum guidelines that apply to most areas in the U.S.  These guidelines are geared towards regions with freeze-thaw cycles.  In non freeze-thaw regions with sandy, well drained soils, there may be no base requirements for residential and pedestrian paver surfaces.

The thickness of the base is determined by traffic loads, soil strength, subgrade soil drainage and moisture, and climate.  Local standards for base thickness of asphalt pavements can be applied to surfaces constructed with concrete pavers.

In the Cleveland area, the following minimum thickness should be used:

• Sidewalks, patios, and walkways- 4″
• Residential driveways- 10-12″
• Parking lots and residential streets-10-12″ often more

As you can see, different types of applications have different base requirements.  These are generally the minimums for paver projects in our regions, but they can vary due to soil conditions.  It is important for you or your paver installer to know the base requirements for your project.  This will ensure that the job is installed properly and will last for years to come.

Also remember that base depth does not mean excavation depth.  If your patio or walkway requires a four inch compacted base, you will still need to factor in your finished height, and allow space for both your bedding sand and the thickness of the paver.

For example, if your finished height will be even with the existing grade, and you plan to use a paver that is 2 3/8 inches thick, you will be required to excavate approximately seven inches.  If you plan to use a thicker paver, make sure you allow for the additional thickness when you excavate.  Cutting corners in any phase of a paver project will result in the shortened longevity and usefulness of the paved surface.  By spending the time and energy to achieve proper base thickness, you are providing your paver patio or walkway with a key component of its integrity for the life of the pavement.

Interlocking pavements are considered flexible pavements.  Loads are distributed through the base by surface contact and interlocking through the various materials, including the paver, jointing sand, bedding sand and base.  The base, which is a crushed limestone or recycled concrete, protects the subgrade from deforming under loads.  When a load reaches the soil layer,  it is distributed across a wide area so that the soil does not deform or rut.  Knowing what kind of loads will be used ensures that the proper amount of base material is installed at the time of installation.  Whether it be pedestrian traffic on a backyard patio, or the weight of heavy machinery at a shipping dock, the right base depth ensures that the pavers distribute the load properly to the subgrade below.

Interlocking pavers spread loads across the base, and can move with minor movements in the base without cracking.  This gives pavers an advantage over asphalt or concrete, which can crack if the base moves, or crack from expansion during freeze thaw cycles.  Another advantage of concrete pavers is their strength.  Poured concrete is rated at about 3,000 psi, whereas concrete pavers carry a rating of at least 7,000 psi.  If it does not carry a rating of at least 7,000 psi, it is not technically considered a paver.  More reputable manufacturers, such as Techo-Bloc, Unilock, and Belgard, having ratings of over 10,000 psi.  They also carry a full lifetime warranty that covers the structural integrity of the paver.

Concrete pavers are more durable than asphalt, offering higher resistance to abrasion, freeze thaw cycles, de-icing salts, concentrated loads, and stains.

Poured concrete is considered a rigid pavement that works on the principle of the layer of concrete protecting the soil subgrade.  Loads are spread by the concrete and bridge soft spots in the soil.  Poured concrete is durable, but requires time to cure, whereas pavers are ready for use immediately upon installation.  Poured concrete cracks and deteriorates due to shrinkage, loads,  and weather.  In contrast, the joints in an interlocking pavement contribute to it’s strength.

People often wonder what keeps the pavers from moving after they have been laid. There are 3 types of interlock that keep them in place.

Vertical Interlock is achieved by the shear transfer of loads to surrounding pavers through the sand in the joints.

Rotational Interlock is maintained by the pavers being of sufficient thickness, placed closely together, and restrained by a curb or edge restraint from lateral forces.

Horizontal Interlock is achieved through the use of laying patterns that disperse forces.  Certain shapes have been shown to contribute to horizontal interlock, offering additional resistance to lateral forces.  Stable edge restraints also maintain horizontal interlock, keeping the pavers tight at the edges of the pavement.

If not properly installed, all of these aspects can fail over time.  The result would be heaving, settling, rotating, or separation around the perimeter.  A properly installed paver project would require minimal attention over the lifetime of the pavement.

When planning your landscape design, there are many factors one should take into consideration.  Your design and plant selection should be specific to both your geographic area, including your yard’s sun and shade requirements, and it should be tailored to your desires.  Whether you’re the type who wants to spend every moment of free time you have in the garden, or you barely have time to cut the grass, there is a plan that is right for you.  These are things you should consider before any designing or planting takes place.  Sometimes we see beautiful plants at the local nursery and compulsively think they are must-haves, but after only a short while, the plant that looked so good at the store has withered in your yard.

Another pitfall to avoid is being so focused on the price of the plant or tree, that we neglect seeking the best quality.  Many people call one garden center after another looking for the best price on the same sized plants.  Without ever setting eyes on it, they go to where they think they are getting the best deal.  But the best price and the best deal are two different things.  The best way to select the plants for your landscape is to visit the different garden centers and see what it is you are paying for.

If you are looking to hire these services out to a landscaper, do some checking before you hire.  Just like when purchasing plants and trees, getting the best price does not equate to getting the best value.  If you hire a company because they were the cheapest, there’s probably a reason.  If they don’t have liability insurance or Worker’s Compensation insurance, and they do damage to your property or someone gets hurt on your property, you become liable.  By trying to save a few dollars, it can end up costing you your house.  If the deal seems to good to be true, then it probably is.  Experienced landscape installers have years of experience in how to properly face the plant, how large to dig the hole, how to read plans, and how to make on-the-job changes.  A reputable company will also be able to provide advice and assistance to you long after the installation has been completed

Buying plants and landscape services is like anything else.  You get what you pay for.  Your landscape should be considered an investment, and treated accordingly.  In the end, the landscape design and plants and trees you select should provide years of beauty and enjoyment for you and your guests.  There is a plan that is right for your yard and your needs.

If your lawn seems to struggle no matter what you do, you may be ready to throw in the towel and start over with a new lawn.  However, it may not require such a drastic step.  If you answer yes to any of the following questions, you may need to consider replacing your existing lawn with a species and variety more suited for your growing conditions.

• Are you trying to grow the wrong grass for your climate?
• Does your lawn regularly turn brown in the summer?
• Is your lawn the last on the block to turn green in the spring, or first to turn brown in the fall?
• Are there more weeds than grass in the spring?
• Do weeds such as crabgrass present a constant battle despite efforts to control them?
• Is most of the turf coarse bladed and pale colored?
• Is your lawn a series of patches of three or more different colored or textured grasses?
• Do insects other than grubs leave large dead patches in your lawn?
• Are there puddles in the lawn after a heavy rain, causing the grass to turn yellow or lose vigor?
• Does the grass wilt if it’s not watered regularly?

Severe and consistent weed infestations and diseases are signs of  a larger problem, possibly poor soil.  If your lawn consists of more than half weeds, then it is best to replace it.  If diseases occur throughout the lawn at least once each year, you should replace it with a disease-resistant grass.  If your lawn has problems with insects, replace it with an insect-resistant variety.

Water puddling on the surface and wilting are signs that the soil needs improvement.  Removing the turf and mending the soil will provide the best results.

Less serious problems require less drastic measures.  You should repair rather than replace your lawn if:

• Most of the grass is fine bladed and deep green.
• The grass may be thin but generally healthy.
• The lawn is less than 25% weeds.
• Diseases occur occasionally or not at all.
• Grass turns brown only during severe droughts.

Repairing can consist of adjusting your fertilizing and watering regime, overseeding with new varieties, aerating, de-thatching and topdressing.

Our customers often ask when the best time of the year to prune & trim is.  The short answer is:  It depends on what is being pruned, and also what you are trying to accomplish.

Often people think of pruning as getting an overgrown shrub or tree back down to a manageable size.  But there are many reasons to prune that have nothing to do with size.  Proper pruning and trimming not only improve the appearance of the plant, but also the condition and vitality.

Pruning can repair damage before more occurs.  It can encourage higher yields of fruits or flowers.  It can make a plant’s shape both more attractive and able to better withstand storms and heavy snows.  It will not only stimulate new growth, but also direct that growth where you want it to go.

You need to be careful about when you prune, because pruning in the wrong season can decrease flowers and fruits.  If you cut back a forsythia in the winter it won’t bloom much in the spring because you have removed most of the flower buds.  It is important to learn the specific needs of each plant you have in your landscape to avoid mistakes like these.  Your local nursery or landscape professional should be able to help you determine the best time to prune your plants.

Here are some general timing guidelines, but it is important to remember that there are exceptions to every rule.

Winter: Trimming deciduous plant in winter can promote fast growth in spring.  The lack of foliage also makes this easier because you can see the shape and branch structure of the plant.  The end of winter is ideal because wound closure begins in spring.

Early Spring: Pruning just before new growth starts allows plants to recover quickly and stimulates growth.

Summer: Summer pruning can cause damage by exposing previously shaded tissue to the sun.  It can also stunt the plant’s growth because it is now using it’s energy to close the wounds caused by pruning.  This is sometimes beneficial in slowing the growth of fast growing hedges.

Fall: Fall is the worst time to shear plants because it encourages new growth that may not have time to harden before winter.  The new growth may then be killed by the cold.  Thinning plants in the fall is ok, especially after the plant has gone dormant.

This is meant to be a general guideline to pruning.  By identifying and researching the specific plants in your landscape, you should be able to tailor a specific plan that fits your needs, and promotes beautiful and healthy growth in your yard.

As we look toward spring, there may be a few projects on the horizon for you this year. Whether it be a landscaping renovation, a new paver patio, or a new retaining wall, contact us today to lock in Spring Discounts.

We will meet with you to go over your project, create a design that is right for you, and set up a time to review the proposal. After going over the proposal, just let us know that you saw this ad online (or click on the coupon and print), and receive 10% off the total cost of the job. That was easy. But hurry, this offer ends April 15th, 2010!

When trying to find the right contractor for your paver job, there are some important questions you should ask. The answers can reflect differences in job price and job quality amongst different contractors competing for the same job. By looking for the best price in town, consumers may be sacrificing quality, safety, and in some cases liability.

In order to ensure a quality installation, the following questions should be asked:

• How long have they been installing pavers?
• Have they been trained by a manufacturer or by the ICPI?  Do they have a written certificate of completion?
• What percentage of their total business consists of installing pavers?
• Will they provide you with three references?
• Can you contact their references and inspect their jobs?
• Do they have a portfolio of photos to qualify themselves?
• Do they currently have a liability insurance certificate?  While on your property, they should be insured for any damage and injuries that may occur.
• Can the contractor provide proof of Worker Compensation insurance?
• Do they install the job per ICPI specifications?
• Do they guarantee their work for at least one year?  Will they return for an inspection before the guarantee expires?

These questions, along with any job specific questions, will ensure you are selecting a competent contractor for you paver project.

On this web site, in the Paver Services section, we make mention of being ICPI Certified.  That may sound good, but what exactly does it mean?

ICPI, or Interlocking Concrete Pavement Institute, teaches the ICPI Concrete Paver Installer Certification Course.  This course communicates high standards to contractors who build concrete patios, driveways, plazas, parking lots, and streets.

What do certified installers learn at the program?

• Material and labor estimating
• Sound business practices
• Job layout
• Use of labor saving specialty tools
• Soil classification and compaction
• Base material selection and compaction
• Bedding and joint sand selection and installation
• Edge restraints
• Paver selection and installation
• Basic contract law

Considering that these are factors in all paving jobs, you should insist that your hardscape contractor is ICPI certified.  The industry is also pushing for municipalities to require certification for all paver contractors performing work in their cities.  All too often, paving jobs are undertaken by companies that lack the experience and knowledge to successfully complete a job, leaving customers dissatisfied, and giving our industry a bad reputation.

So, why choose an ICPI Certified Installer?

Knowledge:

ICPI certified installers are industry professionals.  They recognize industry standards on constructing interlocking concrete pavements.

Assurance:

You can be sure that a company with a certified installer on staff is dedicated to quality installation standards and on-going education.

Investing Wisely:

You’re investing in a low-maintenance, long-lasting pavement.  Certified installers can help get the job done right the first time and on time.